
Ronda la Vieja (literally “old Ronda”), was actually an independent settlement and was not originally associated with the Moorish town of Ronda (Arunda) and whilst most of the architectural sights to be seen are from the Roman age, there are also important prehistoric habitation remains with the oldest dating from the Neolithic period of around 4000 years ago through the Copper and Bronze ages. The site can be found about 14 kilometres northwest of present day Ronda (see map at the bottom) and a visit is highly recommended not only to see the ruins but also the stunning views of the Sierra de Grazalema and Serrania de Ronda.
Acinipo viewed from the Sierra de grazalema
Ronda La Vieja or Acinipo was originally an Iberian settlement which came under Roman rule at the end of the Second Punic War around 202 BC with the defeat of General Hannibal and Carthage. Acinipo, as it was known to the Romans, is thought to mean "Amongst the vineyards" but the fertile land around the ruins is now cultivated with a mixture olives, almonds and vineyards amongst other arable crops. The situation is a classic example of strategic site selection being located atop a high, easily defendable foothill (999 metres) of the Ronda highlands ("Serrania de Ronda"). It contains the remarkable remains of the Roman theatre built in the 1st century that include the lower seating levels carved from the very bedrock and much of the original main wall is intact apart from some rather ugly concrete reparation work carried out during the 1980's.
The theatre would have played an important part in disseminating political thought and imperial ideology of the time with the content of the plays acted out and also within the structure of the building. The tiered seating was sufficient for 2000 people and separate entrances kept the classes apart whilst the main wall would have been adorned with the statues of gods and emperors, the all powerful benefactors that controlled the lives of the citizens.
The theatre
The urban layout was typically Roman with buildings such as the theatre and the public baths that were built around a square with an arcaded ambulatory. The general internal layout of the city was made up of rectangular blocks of houses built in the squares formed by two intersecting main streets. Although the area has been excavated a few times since the 1980's and with the last major work carried out in 2006 most of the city area remains untouched by archaeologists. The latest excavations have concentrated on the public baths.

Acinipo was abandoned in the sixth century after many years of decline starting from the third century. A once powerful city that minted its own coinage and had its own magistrates was left to ruin with the centre of power switching to what is now the town of Ronda. The coins were stamped with a triple bunch of grapes on one side and the word "Acinipo" motto between ears of wheat on the other side and it is believed the coinage was produced from 56 to 53 BC.
The situation of Acinipo can only be described as stunning. The views over the Sierra de Grazalema and Serrania de Ronda are lovely and a wide range of bird life can also be seen at various times of year.
Griffon vultures (Gyps fulvus) thermal in the sky and there is a good chance of spotting short-toed, booted and even golden eagles. Smaller birds that prefer steppe type terrain such as wheatears and larks can also be seen.
The Sierra de grazalema from Acinipo peak
Opening Hours Monday: Closed
Entry times Tuesday to Saturday: 10.00 to 16.00 (Gates locked at 17.00):
Sunday: 09.00 to 13.00 (Gates locked at 14.00).
Entrance is free with access through the farmyard area where you give your country of origin details to the gatekeeper.
A slow walk uphill from the parking area through the piles of rubble and broken roof tiles is all that is required and the site is let down a little as there is virtually no information on site. To find out more a visit to the municipal museum in Ronda is essential (Mondrago palace) where there is an excellent informative exhibition with many artefacts and models to help you visualise what the town of Acinipo would have looked like at its most powerful.
Directions from RondaLeave Ronda in the direction of Jerez de la Frontera on the A376 and just after you cross the river and railway line bridge with the army barracks of the legion on the left you will see a sign on the right for Acinipo and Yacimiento Ronda la Vieja. Take this road (MA-7402) uphill for about 12km. A well marked left turn will bring you to the large parking area.
Book a hotel in an area close to Acinipo through the secure server at booking.comClick here for a hotel in RondaClick here for a hotel in the Sierra de las nievesClick here for a hotel in the Sierra de Grazalema