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Sierra de Grazalema-Grazalema Print E-mail
Towns and Villages
Saturday, 16 May 2009 00:00
Grazalema under snowGrazalema is a traditional white village (pueblo blanco) located in the north-eastern area of Cadiz province. It nestles amongst the beautiful mountains of the Sierra de Grazalema and has a local population of around 2000 people inhabiting the village and surrounding countryside. Set in a protected area popular for nature and outdoor enthusiasts the village itself is on the list of obligatory visits on the route of the white villages of Andalucia.

The true origins of Grazalema are still largely unknown and, like much of our past history, are shrouded in the mists of time. But, the Roman Villa of Lacidulia, situated in an estate near to the present village has been traditionally considered the ancestor of the village. Some new (2008) investigations are uncovering more information that may prove the old theories to be misunderstood and we’ll update this page as we learn more. Certainly, during the eighth century the area was populated by the Berber people from North Africa who gave the name “Raisa lami suli” to the urban area. Afterwards it was called Bensalama or “son of Zulema”. Later this was altered to “Grand Zulema” and by the time of the Christian conquest in 1485 it was known as “Zagrazalema”

Grazalema from the Gaidovar peak
Grazalema and the church of San Jose with the road to El Bosque above

Blankets from GrazalemaAs early as the 17th century the Grazalema that we know, became famous for its textiles, making  blankets and  articles of clothing from wool. The valley below the village known as “La Ribera” was an important area with many water powered mills processing wool for the textile industry. Other mills in the same valley were busy pressing olives for oil and grinding wheat for flour. Sadly many (though not all) of these mills are now abandoned and in ruins or have been converted to weekend houses, and the machinery lost. The 19th century industrial revolution and mass production of textiles in the north of Spain caused a serious economic problem to the cottage industry villages such as Grazalema - that alone employed the labour of over 4000 workers for the various areas of the textile industry. You can imagine the scene as production pretty much stopped causing mass unemployment. That said, you can still buy high quality woollen products made in traditional ways and even visit the small working museum in the village to watch items being made. See more at the website of artesania textil de Grazalema here

Along with the textile industry the traditional work of local people is centred on small scale agriculture, sheep and goat farming, the harvesting of cork and also furniture making. Some of the old water powered mills were used as carpenter’s workshops where the water powered a central shaft for belt driven machinery. Now carpenters are turning out high quality workmanship from modern workshops.

Grazalema plaza de España
The Plaza de España is a good place to take a rest and watch the comings and goings of the village

Tourism now plays a major role in sustaining the village and its people. The numerous bars, restaurants and hotels depend on visitors coming to see the white villages of Western Andalusia and the beautiful scenery whilst other companies provide tours for hiking, canoeing climbing and other outdoor activities. The fact that the mountains are protected by law means that the sierra de Grazalema natural park also provides direct employment to the local work force.

The first celebration of the summer is the Romeria de San Isidro which is held on the last Sunday of May. It celebrates the arrival of summer and involves a lively procession of virtually the entire village down to a pasture in the ribera valley. In the usual way of Spanish festivities there are copious amounts of food and drink and lots of loud music. The party goes on all day and for as long as anyone has the energy to keep going.

During the third week of July, the Fiestas of Carmen are held. Music and dancing goes on virtually 24 hours a day and the climax of the festivities end with the “Lunes de toro de cuerdo” (full article on the Lunes de toro de cuerdo coming soon). This event is not for the feint hearted as it involves a fighting bull with a long length or rope tied to its horns and the villagers pulling it around in a tug of war whilst at the same time trying not to get gored. It does involve what many people consider to be animal cruelty and so a decision needs to be made whether you want to witness this or not. As the name suggests it is always held on a Monday.

Around the third week of August are the “Fiestas Mayores” the big week of celebrations including live bands, fun fairs, dancing, late nights and lots of food. The music is deafening and the partying frenzied for the youngsters of the village but there is always something for everybody at the August feria.

The eighth of September is a celebration of the patron saint of Grazalema “Nuestra señora de los angeles” (our lady of the angels).

You can generally pick up a copy of the coming year's celebrations from the office of the ayuntamiento which is in the plaza de España next to the police station.

The church of San Jose
The church of San Jose has a carpenters workshop within its walls

There are various bars and restaurants around the village, the majority being centred around the plaza de España and the plaza de Andalucia. Food is generally simple with a good selection of traditional tapas available. (See article on traditional tapas coming very soon).

During the month of August the municipal swimming pool is open and is situated at the Mirador El Tajo restaurant. This is on the main road towards El Bosque on the corner just past the car park. Further on as the road climbs are wonderful views across the rooftops of Grazalema and you will find the camp site “Camping Tajo Rodillo”. The campsite is open all year apart from the 24th of June to the 1st of August when it is full of pre booked children’s camps. Find out more at the campsite website here.

The Roman fountain and the fountain heads
The faces of the puente Romano
Useful addresses, opening times and telephone numbers.

The Town Hall (Ayuntamiento)
Plaza España 1
11610 Grazalema
956 132 011
Winter Monday - Friday 08.00 - 15.00
Summer Monday-Friday 08.00 – 14.30

Policía Local de Grazalema
Plaza de España, 1
Tel: 956 132 011
Fax: 956 132 028

The Doctors / Medical centre
Plaza Pequeña
11610 Grazalema
956 132 034

The Pharmacy
Calle la piedra, 37
Hours: Monday – Saturday 09.30 - 13.30
17.00 - 20.00

Bank Unicaja
Plaza de España 2
11610 Grazalema
956 132 211
Cash machine inside main door

Bank Cajasol
Plaza España 4
11610 Grazalema
956 132 365
Cash machine inside main door

The petrol station can be found at the bottom of the village on the main road towards Ronda. You can also get the Cepsa silver gas bottles here.

Other useful numbers
Guardia Civil 956 132 112
Fire brigade (Emergencies) 085
Fire station (at Ubrique) 956 460 011

Update: May 2009
There is now a new tourist information centre within Grazalema village located on the main carpark... Called "Centro de interpretacion turistico" the office is run by a very nice lady (who can speak a little English and very good German) will do her best to help with getting permits and giving information on the area. Right now opening times are Thursday to Sunday 10 am to 2pm and 4 pm to 6 pm...

The main centre (from where the permissions are given for walking within protected areas) will continue to be in El Bosque village by the bull ring, on the western border of the natural park.



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Last Updated on Saturday, 16 May 2009 14:59
 

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Where to Eat

The best places to eat in Western Andalucia!
Restaurant Al Lago, Zahara de la Sierra
A stunning setting with lake views from the terrace in which to enjoy a leisurely lunch, dinner or innovative tapas. Chef Stefan Crites, who trained in New York for many years, re-interprets some of Spain’s culinary classics with a creative and exotic touch using local organic vegetables, top quality meat and fresh fish from the markets in Cadiz.

Hotels in the Area

Guest houses, Hotels and b&b's
Hotel Fuerte Grazalema
Situated in the heart of the sierra de Grazalema natural park, Hotel Fuerte Grazalema is a paradise for outdoor walking enthusiasts and is set in oak woodlands 5 kilometres from the village of Grazalema. It makes an excellent base from which to discover this stunning part of western Andalucia

Cortijo Valverde
Beautiful hotel with outstanding views of the surrounding countryside providing that special vacation destination for either a restful holiday, or a base from which to explore the many treasures that Andalucia and Inland Spain has to offer.

Las Truchas
Las Truchas is a small hotel with a home from home atmosphere, located in the quaint town of El Bosque. Explore the Sierra de Grazalema Natural Park and the White Towns Route (Ruta de los Pueblos Blancos) that are situated within easy reaching distance of this hotel. You can enjoy magnificent views of the surrounding landscape from the hotel rooms.

Villa Turistica Grazalema
This hotel is located 500 metres from the charming village of Grazalema, a place characterised by its whitewashed façades, its narrow and windy streets and set in the centre of the natural park


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